My Top Tips for Keeping Guinea Pigs


Guinea pigs are incredibly sociable, chatty animals and you'll also find that no two are the same. Despite being small, fluffy rodents, they also have tiny personalities that are only really noticeable by loving owners who handle and care for them regularly. There are also many different breeds of guinea pig, some with short fur, others with long fur, some with flatter noses and others with more pointy noses - you never know which one you're going to get until they begin to mature, and that's what we like about them.

Not only that, but they're absolutely adorable! Either way, it's important that we're looking after these furry little creatures to the best of our abilities to give them long and happy lives. Having kept guinea pigs for over 25 years, here are a few hints, tips and tricks you need to consider both before and after buying a little guinea pig.

Things to consider before buying a guinea pig

1. If you have allergies, then getting a guinea pig isn't a good idea. Likewise if you're allergic to the food they'll be chomping down on or the materials they love to sleep in, such as hay or dry grass for example.

2. Be prepared to buy two instead of one. Guinea pigs like to have friends, they're sociable animals and can therefore get pretty sad when left on their own. If you're planning on buying a guinea pig, don't just get one! Buy their friend as well :) If you're getting two boys, be sure to castrate them as soon as possible as they have been known to fight each other when their hormones are in full swing.

3. They need a certain amount of space to roam, run and play. Most pet guinea pigs live in cages that are far too small for them. Two guinea pigs need around seven square feet of free space. If you can stretch to ten feet, then do that instead!

4. You must be prepared to look after your guinea pig for at least five years. We've had guinea pigs before that have lived for around 8/9 years, so they aren't a short term pet that you can have for a year or two.

5. They can have babies at very young ages. Make sure you aren't mixing sexes if not castrated, even if they're really young. Guinea pigs can give birth to around three-four babies at any one time, so be responsible and do your best not to breed them.

6. They eat A LOT! Be prepared to keep your fridge stocked up with lots of ripe, fresh, juicy veg. Yes, their bowls can be filled with dry food specifically designed for guinea pigs, but their diet should be enriched with lots of fresh food - this will also help them to keep their teeth sharp and their coats in good condition.

7. You need to clean them out once every three days or so, especially if you have more than two. They go to the loo a heck of a lot and so you should be prepared to clean them out on a regular basis. This can take anywhere between 20 minutes (for a quick change of paper, bedding and hay), to half an hour (for a thorough clean out). If you don't have the time, don't get a guinea pig.

8. They need to be groomed. They aren't like hamsters, they need grooming, especially if they have long fur coats. We had one guinea pig (called Janet, who is also featured in the first and last photo of this post) who needed regular brushing and we made sure her fur was cut short in the summer months. If you don't keep on top of things, their fur can get matted and it can make life painful for them. Not only that, but their claws need trimming as well. If you aren't confident enough to do this yourself, your local vet will be able to do it for you, at a relatively reasonable price.

9. They can make a considerable amount of noise. My guinea pigs will squeak when they hear a bag rustling or a knife on a chopping board, as it means food. They'll squeak when they want something, which is pretty clever, so if you don't like loud, high-pitched noises, or if you have children who are particularly sensitive to those types of noises, then guinea pigs won't be the pet for you.

10. When they're sick, they'll need to see a vet. Please don't let your poorly guinea pig suffer. Take them to the vet and get the problem diagnosed and treated. Vet bills can be quite expensive, so if you can't afford it, then don't buy a guinea pig.


Rescuing a guinea pig is always an option

Call your local RSPCA or animal rescue centre and enquire about the small animals they have in their care. It's a common misconception that it's just cats and dogs who need re-homing, and although this is (sadly) a prevalent problem in today's society, there are copious amounts of small animals who need a good home as well.

Understanding the needs of a guinea pig

As I've already said, no two guinea pigs are the same, but each one requires the same amount of time, care and attention. It's entirely up to you how you take care of your guinea pig, but there are some fundamentals to it all!

Environment

  • Guinea pigs need plenty of space to roam
  • Regular exercise is essential
  • They much be protected from extreme temperatures
  • They must be kept out of direct sunlight, strong winds and cold draughts
  • Keep them away from radiators and other heat sources when kept inside
  • Keep them in calm, quiet places within your home
  • Keep them topped up with bedding (dust-free hay) and don't give them nesting materials (cotton wool)
  • Avoid giving them plastic toys to chew on. Give them untreated wooden ones instead
  • Ensure they have plenty of hiding places, such as grass houses
  • Clean them out regularly
  • Find a responsible person to look after them when you're on holiday
  • Make sure your guinea pig is safe and comfortable when being transported anywhere

Diet

  • Keep them topped up with fresh water
  • Good quality hay can help their digestive systems, you could even try them with dry grass
  • Fresh grass and green veg are vital to ensuring they're well-nourished
  • Give them larger portions of food if your guinea pig is: a baby, pregnant, nursing, underweight
  • Avoid suddenly changing their diet as it could upset their digestive system
  • Carrots and small amounts of apple or watermelon (as a treat) are fine, but don't give them too much as they could end up with the runs
  • Monitor both what and how much they're eating, this way, you'll be able to spot unusual behaviours which could be a sign that your guinea pig is poorly
Food guinea pigs shouldn't eat

- Meat
- Dairy
- Lettuce of any variety
- Avocado
- Cabbage and cauliflower
- Onions/leeks/chives/shallots
- Plants or veg that have been treated with pesticides
- Garlic
- Beans
- Nuts
- Rhubarb
- Sweets/chocolate
- Tomato leaves or stalks
- Seeds and pips

Behaviour

  • They need constant access to everything, including food, water, hiding places, toys and other guinea pigs
  • They like to chew things to keep their teeth sharp and at a reasonable length - give them untreated, wooden toys and other harder, edible treats for them to nibble on
  • They must have enough space to walk and run around
  • They like to burrow and hide, so give them plenty of hay
  • They don't like loud or unexpected noises, so be calm and gentle around them
  • Guinea pigs may seem skittish, and they are by nature, but regular handling and stroking will make them a family-suitable pet in no time
  • Be observant and keep an eye out for any strange or unusual behaviour. If you find that their personalities or general behaviour has changed, take them to the vet for a checkup

Company

  • Rabbits and guinea pigs should never be kept together
  • Guinea pigs like to have at least one friend, ideal combinations include:
*2 or more females
*1 neutered male and 1 female
*2 neutered males, if reared together
  • If male, have them neutered as soon as possible. This prevents unwanted guinea pig babies, as well as stamping out their need to fight with other uncastrated males
  • Keep dogs and cats away from the guinea pig's cage
  • Handle your guinea pigs from an early age to get them used to human contact, this will make your guinea pig less skittish and more docile
*Never leave your guinea pig unattended in the arms of a child and do not squeeze them
*Noises should be kept to a minimum and only give light, gentle strokes 
*Do not touch their whiskers, feet, claws, mouth or nose
*Some guinea pigs may like a tickle behind the ear, whereas other won't

For health and welfare advice, visit the RSPCA website


Introducing a new guinea pig to another

  • Ensure you now have a large enough cage for two or more guinea pigs
  • Know the sex of the new guinea pig(s). If you're unsure, ask your vet
  • When you take your guinea pig(s) home, allow them to get to know their surroundings first before putting them with your existing guinea pigs
  • Once they have settled, swap some belongings around - place bedding that came with your new guinea pig(s) into the cage of your existing ones and take some bedding from your existing guinea pigs and put that in with your new guinea pig(s) - this is called 'scent swapping', allowing a new scent to be introduced without the distraction of another guinea pig who neither party are familiar with.
  • If the scent swapping goes to plan, take your existing guinea pigs out of the cage or hutch and place your new guinea pig(s) in it instead. This allows them to experience a space which has been occupied by other guinea pigs they aren't familiar with.
  • If this goes well, put them in the same hutch, cage or pen, but separate them with some wire mesh. This way, both old and new guinea pigs will be able to see and smell each other in a way they weren't able to before, but they should all be familiar with one another's scents, making it less of a shock for them.
  • If communication through the mesh is positive, then it's time for them to meet in a neutral location. If communication through the mesh went less well, then create a barrier in a neutral space for them to continue seeing and smelling each other. If positive behaviours are shown, remove the barrier and continue with the next steps.
  • Add open-ended boxes, tubes, beds and runs to the neutral space to give them somewhere to run to and hide should they feel the need to
  • Scatter hay and food around the neutral space so your guinea pigs become distracted somewhat. This also helps to build positive connotations with each other and their new surroundings.
  • Never leave them unsupervised and do not rush the process
Housing your guinea pigs together:
  • Remove enclosed houses and carriers from the space and provide them with objects to hide behind instead
  • Scatter food around the cage and attach two bottles of water
  • Put the guinea pigs in together and supervise them initially
  • If you have no concerns regarding their behaviour, then they should be fine to leave alone together
  • If you still aren't sure, continue the above process a few more times and then try doing this again
Other things to note:
  • Negative behaviours include: teeth chattering, constantly hiding from each other, not spending any time near each other and chasing one another
  • If your guinea pig(s) look stressed or showing signs of aggression, then end the session and try again the next day
  • Some guinea pigs bond quickly, whereas others will take a bit longer. Just be patient and continue the aforementioned process until they become friends
  • Have a rigid board handy in case of emergencies. Should aggressive behaviour be shown, you can use the board to break it up and gently herd them back down opposite ends of the neutral space
  • End the session positively if possible
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I hope you found this post useful. Let me know if you have guinea pigs, or are thinking about getting some. If you have any more tips, leave them in the comments or let me know via my social media links below. I will see you again really soon with a brand new blog post for you!

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